What an inspection actually finds

The two things that cost used car buyers the most money are undisclosed accident repair and an engine or transmission problem that was not obvious on a short test drive. Both are exactly what a proper inspection is designed to surface.

A visual check in a seller's driveway does not. Structural repair shows up in panel gaps, paint texture, non-factory welds and sealant in the door shuts and boot floor — places most buyers never look and would not know how to read.

• Body and structure — evidence of accident repair, chassis alignment, rust
• Engine — compression, leaks, smoke, cold start behaviour, noise under load
• Transmission — shift quality, slipping, flaring, fluid condition
• Suspension, steering and brakes
• Electrics, air conditioning and every interior function
• Odometer consistency against physical wear

Use an inspector you chose

The most important rule is that the inspection is arranged and paid for by you, not recommended by the seller. An inspector with a relationship to the seller is not working for you.

If a seller refuses an independent inspection on a car they describe as being in good condition, that refusal has told you what the inspection would have.

When it matters most

Always on an imported vehicle without an auction sheet, always on a car whose price is noticeably below the market for its year, and always when you cannot personally assess condition.

The cost is trivial against the purchase price and negligible against the cost of a rebuilt engine or a structural repair discovered after you own it.